The Last Marathon - Antarctica
- By Doug Kurtis
03/20/03
Last month, Walt Pheeney left Farmington
Hills for Antarctica to run in a race called The Last Marathon.
Pheeney, a 60-year-old veteran of marathons
and triathlons, joined 115 adventurous athletes in Buenos Aires, Argentina, for
the trek to the white continent. For him, it was an 18,000-mile round-trip from
Michigan.
From Buenos Aires, they flew to Tierra del
Fuego at the southern tip of South America, then boarded a Russian research
vessel; their home for the next 10 days.
"The whole trip was scheduled for 17
days," Pheeney said. "On the return trip, it was delayed two
additional days when we got trapped in a Force 12 storm while crossing the
tumultuous Drake Passage, hitting 70-m.p.h. sustained winds and 40- to 50-foot
waves."
The marathoners cruised the inlets and fjords
of the mainland of Antarctica while listening to talks on the marine life and
research. They took at least two excursions a day by Zodiac, an inflatable
rubber craft, to various parts of the continent, witnessing everything from
whale, seal and penguin activity to exploring icebergs, climbing glaciers and
running the marathon.
Icebergs of amazing bulky shapes and
deep-blue hues characterize Antarctica. It has crystal clear yet intensely cold
water, mountainous snow and ice-covered rock formations rising precipitously
out of the ocean. In March, Antarctica has 18 hours of sunlight followed by a
jet-black night with a star show one could never imagine.
"I was a quick convert to the fact that
this was the most pristine, unspoiled, foreboding yet picturesque place on
earth," Pheeney said. "I was humbled to be among the lucky few to
have ever experienced this grandeur and beauty. I reflect on the whole
Antarctica journey and realize that most everyday concerns seem somehow
insignificant."
The native inhabitants are Gentoo penguins,
crab-eater seals, humpback whales, albatross and skuas. Albatross and skuas are
large marine birds. There are no polar bears or any other land-dwelling
animals. Only those that find their food supply in the ocean survive there.
There are no plants or vegetation.
The Last Marathon was scheduled for March 3,
but a predicted whiteout storm forced organizers to start the race a day early.
That morning provided a window of reasonable weather. (Reasonable is not a
long-lasting adjective in Antarctica.)
The temperature at the start of the marathon
was similar to what Pheeney found training in Michigan during this unusually
cold winter.
It was the end of Antarctica's summer season.
His running gear consisted of trail shoes,
wraparound sunglasses, a protective coating of petroleum jelly on his exposed
skin and moisture-wicking thin layers under windproof Goretex.
The figure-eight-shaped course led through
Russian, Uruguayan, Chilean and Chinese research outposts and up a one-mile
glacier on two occasions. It had many more hills than Pheeney anticipated.
The footing was mostly a few inches of loose
snow on top of hard-packed snow. Sometimes the course went over ice, especially
on the two glacier climbs. With the high winds, snow drifts developed in
strange places, and with everything white in all directions, the drifts were
difficult to see until the runners were knee-deep in them.
There were no mile markers and minimal course
markers. They would get covered with snow, and the skua birds would steal the
flags and markers. The seals insisted on receiving a wide berth, and the
penguins just thought of the runners as ugly seals. The far turnaround points
of the figure eight were either at the top of a glacier or at a research
outpost. There were no aid stations. If you wanted something you carried it.
Runners were encouraged to have four water bottles to deposit along the course
to use on the subsequent loop.
The start and finish line was a large pole in
the ground in the middle of the figure eight at a Russian research outpost.
Many runners stopped at the half-marathon
point. One runner fell on a glacier and suffered a broken arm. Of the 115
entrants, 59 finished the full marathon. Pheeney completed the race in 4:53,
almost 1:15 off his typical time. The overall winner, Bogdan Barewski of
Poland, ran a 3:33. The slowest runner finished in 7:42.
Contact Doug Kurtis at Detroit Free Press, 600 W. Fort St.
Detroit, 48226
or [email protected]